Men’s fashion week officially started on Saturday, and with some of the biggest designers opting to broadcast their catwalk show via live streaming it’s been quite exciting so far. Here we bring your our series of round ups, starting with Day 1, Saturday 19th June.
Costume National Homme
At Costume National Homme the show was a mix of relaxed tailoring and luxe separates, from city shorts to lightweight trenches that started in light camel tones and moved gradually into soft taupes, to a sharper look that saw slate grey suiting contrasted against nude sheer layers. Suiting was cut slightly away from the body so the look was defined but relaxed, and we saw a mix of double and single breasted jackets as well as wearable trenches and shorter bomber style jackets.
Dolce and Gabbana
It was the 20th anniversary men’s show in Milan for SS11 and it was white heat on the catwalk, as the show opened with male models dressed head to toe in white ensembles while Annie Lennox played as an accompaniment. The collection went on to include lightweight suiting in classic darker tones before moving into a laid-back Riviera section that included cotton pinstripe shirts worn open and relaxed, mixed with rolled up trousers that were gathered at the waist and tied with rope-belts. Coarser fabrics that included hessian and heavy cotton mixes were used to achieve a more pared-down approach to luxe dressing before the show concluded with a host of super-suited men in the classic Dolce and Gabbana silhouette. Watch the catwalk show here.
Calvin Klein Collection
Calvin Klein Collection presented a very streamlined sports feel collection that included slim fit suiting in two-tone fabrics as well as luxe nude shades. At the sportier end of the spectrum Calvin Klein Collection showed cropped jersey tops and zipper bomber style jackets and shorts combinations. The collection excelled with its more colourful ensembles that mixed striking azures, bold turquoises and soft blues with more muted tones of khaki and beige.
Outerwear proved key again at Burberry with everything from studded leathers to military-touched trenches in suede and wool, as well as padded shooting jackets and shorter pea-style coats all done with that signature Christopher Bailey grunge-glam. The colour palette was made up from rich hues of khaki, slate, ochre and dark navy for a sumptuous, wearable and desirable collection. Watch the catwalk show here.
It was a triumphant show from Versace that was inflected with 80s British Ska and Gangster style and a touch of rockabilly with quiffed hair and wide lapel jackets. There were super-streamlined suits cut slightly short at the ankle to show classic black and white winkle pickers, while fitted waistcoats were mixed with bold print monochrome shirts. The two-tone suits and flashes of tartan harked back to the 80s Ska movement with an added sense of Italian sleekness and suave.
See the full coverage of all shows at GQ.com