Continuing our round-up of Men’s fashion week in Milan, we move on to Sunday 20th June with more highlights from the top designers.
Bottega Veneta presented a chic and luxurious but extremely wearable collection, with ultra relaxed suiting in bright whites, earthy burgundies and deep blues. When jackets were double breasted they were cut slightly loose and worn with low slung, almost slouchy trousers for a chic, laid back look. The single breasted ensembles were closer fitted in shades of stone and putty, but still worn with an air of relaxed nonchalance. We also saw a great section of spring-time khakis and burnt terracottas, with rolled up shorts, open funnel neck shirts and a very short pair of deep brown leather shorts.
It was sleek, sexy and fierce at Emporio Armani with lots of leather, sheer panels, crocodile print and a few chains here and there too. Models wore fitted leather trousers, sometimes slashed, sometimes crocodile print, mixed with leather waistcoats, sheer shirts and beguiling eye makeup. The show had a monochrome feel, with most looks either all black, all white, or a mix of varied grey-blues. At its softest the collection showed looser tailored trousers in a two-tone bluish fabric mixed with a sheer shirting and a ultra short sleeved blazer. Closely fitted tapered cropped trousers in light tones were worn with ankle length crocodile skin pointed boots and paired with tailored waistcoats in powder and egg-shell blue.
There was a distinct gentlemanly vibe to this resort-feel collection of broad shouldered, slightly boxy blazers in luxurious twill cottons and light pinstripes. Alongside the more classic suiting looks there were also louche touches with two-tone geometric print shorts and blazers in shades of gold and blue. The colour palette picked up on one of the emerging trends from Men’s fashion week, which saw neutral shades of taupe and cream mixed with richer ochres and bold blues. Details were key, with buttons featuring at the tapered ankle of wide leg trousers and on the oversized pockets of the non-dress shirts.
It was a super chic collection from Ferragamo with a Riviera inspired collection in shades of crisp creams, champagnes and burnt umber, as well as classic whites and midnight blues for a more traditional Riviera look. The more neutral ensembles were interspersed with short shorts and sweater combinations in contrasting bright blue and white, with a flash of yellow at the feet with bold sandals. Classic boat necks were done in bright white with neutral stripes and knee length tailored shorts worn with white brogue type shoes.
At McQueen we got the urban gentleman – slim fit trousers with utility style pockets were worn with classic herringbone checked blazers and grungy leather was worn underneath a city-style trench with a rich brocade silk scarf. Trouser lengths were cut short at the ankle and either super skinny or tapered, while jackets focussed on proportion, notably with an oversized overcoat in herringbone check and an unusually high-buttoned double breasted jacket worn with a red pocket.
Double denim was taken to a new level at Prada as we saw all-denim suiting, even down to the tie, worn on the catwalk. Elsewhere denim tops were worn tucked into billowing shorts, making for a real contrast in proportion to the slim fit neutral coloured suiting that opened the show. In between the denim suits and muted beige ensembles we had bursts of colour in the form of a bright orange blazer and turquoise green t-shirts worn with fresh blue shorts, before colourful striped jumpers towards the end of the show.
See all of the collections in full at GQ online.