Summer is here and with it comes scorching temperatures, humid air and, well a pleasant change of wardrobe and styling. To save yourself from the tyranny of the weather, one can consider rolling up those long sleeve shirts or ditching them in favor of a more suave short sleeve alternative. The latter option seems more viable seeing as this is the season to show some skin plus it wouldn’t seem remotely presumptuous to flaunt those biceps outside the gym!

Personally, The Sartorialist serves as a point of contact for inspired looks for any season. Digging through my archived favorites, I couldn’t help but call attention to this rather polished short sleeve shirt ensemble. First, the pairing of a club collar with a plaid tie is bold but yet equally reverential of the distinguished leanings possessed by the two items. During the early 19th century, the likes of King George IV patronized the tartan pattern which left plaid with a slew of admirers. Conversely, club or round collars rose to popularity during the 1930s as a signature of the prestigious Eaton School in Great Britain. Some naysayers claim the style has seen its glory days come and gone, but Patrik Ervell and Tim Hamilton didn’t bid adieu to the collar style in their SS08 and AW09 collections, respectively. Both designers emphasized the quirk of the club collar by letting it take the limelight sans a neck tie.

However, taking nothing away from Ervell and Hamilton’s rendition, I happen to prefer the juxtaposition of the skinny plaid tie and the contrast white club collar on this Italian gentleman. Moreover, the popularity skinny ties have garnered in recent years can help kick start a renaissance in the club collar. Gladly, Topman makes it possible to recreate this look at an affordable price. The blue and white polka dot shirt (£28.00) creates a subtle light blue hue consistent with the above ensemble, but the dotted pattern still resonates well. Round that off with a slim tartan green tie (£10.00), a pair of beige chino and perhaps this white leather plait belt (£15.00) and you may just experience a Sartorialist encounter!

[Image]

I heart A.P.C. and I heart The Teenagers.

Naturally, great minds tend to think alike so it was an expected symbiosis of talent for Jean Touitou to team up with The Teenagers, a French synthpop meets indie rock band, to produce a limited edition of t-shirts on the topic of rock and roll. The message of “I Hate Rock and Roll” is to salvage what the genre once was and Touitou has enlisted several bands (The Teenagers, Housse de Racket, Koko Von Napoo and Chateau Marmont) that remain true to the art form and are not merely posers.

Of course I’m chuffed that The Teenagers were thrown into the mix of legit rock bands, but I’m more so pleased with the thought that went into The Teenagers’ design and the lovey-dovey feel of the end result.

Paris, as a city, is synonymous with love so the amorous overtones make The Teenagers t-shirt a salient portrait of who they are as individuals and as a band. Plus, it looks like a cooler version of those cliche “I Love Paris” touristy tees that make such comme ci comme ca gifts.

Visit A.P.C. here to score your Teenagers tee ($40) and support unfeigned rock and roll!

“I go to L.A. and people tell me, ‘I love the way you dress, but I could never do that because everyone will think I’m gay.’ American guys worry too much about what others think. Fashion is fun, and you should be able to play with your look” — Milan Vukmirovic in GQ

Vukmirovic couldn’t have been anymore honest or spot on. This issue relates to men of all races and cultures, but as a member of the Black community, the sexual stigma of dressing in and possessing a somewhat peculiar style is even more immediate.

Homosexual labels are quickly splashed out to the likes of Kanye West and Andre 3000 because their idea of fashion and dress is nested in a culture that is somewhat different from what African American/Black men are accustomed to. Rather than branding it gay, let’s just settle with “different from the norm” or “the French Perspective”.

If you’ve ever ventured down past a post to read a bit about who I am as a writer, you would know that I possess an intriguing alter-ego in that I’m a biomedical researcher by day and well, an art aficionado by night (and day)!

As expected, a good chunk of my day is spent poring through scientific literature, writing manuscripts or tending to research participants. The other chunk feeds that right-brain lust for fashion, art and anything where a sizeable dose of subjectivity can be thrown at it. As expected, over the course of my workday, the odd chance of coming across anything remotely fashion-related amid the scientific jargon is rare. Browsing fashion blogs and reading the latest findings in the Journal of Neuroscience are tasks that are far removed from one another—except for today!

Truth be told, the world of biomedicine is not void of aesthetic sensibilities towards beauty. For instance, botox is one scientific design where medicine and aesthetics meet symbiotically to render subjective beauty onto those who relent to the knife. So, in essence, the blurb I stumbled upon today on the bizarre association between bow ties and health didn’t surprise me in the slightest.

Interestingly, neckwear is emerging as a slightly more direct manifestation of fashion in the drab, white coated world of medicine. Thanks to a certain cadre of doctors from two Cleveland, Ohio hospitals, the American medical profession is taking note of how the fashion sensibilities of doctors could very well play an integral role in efficacious health. To add further legitimacy to the debate, these fashionable claims are championed by recent scientific studies that found that almost half of the long ties worn by medical health personnel harbor bacteria that cause germs! The notion to the tie-germ connection is that as doctors frequent bedside upon bedside shining lights into eyes and ears or listening for heart/lungs, their ties inherently will loll about, touching the patient, the bed railings and pretty much anything in its path. As the doctor makes his rounds, a steady stockpile of germs accumulates on the tie, forming a respository for pathogens that could potentially cause harm to a patients’ health. Quite alarming, no?

Well Dr. Kent Smith, the vice dean at Case Western Reserve University Medical School in Cleveland, Ohio has offered an alternative: ditch dangling neckties for the more suave bow tie. Smith’s suggestion comes from his longstanding partiality towards bow ties, envisioning the distinctive neckwear as a “nice, break-the-ice kind of thing.” For Dr. Walter Chwals, a pediatric surgeon at the Rainbow Babies and Childrens Hospital that’s also in Ohio, he dons bow ties to honor his late father, but he is equally cognizant of the health benefits it affords both his patients and himself.

Unfortunately, the aesthetic leanings of these two doctors hasn’t permeated to the rest of their colleagues. At the hospital where I ply my trade, very rarely do I see attendings, residents, or med students sport a bow tie–it remains the customary long, drab and often oversized tie. Across the pond in the United Kingdom, the landscape is far more progressive. Apparently, doctors in the UK are now obligated to dress bare from the neck down.I’m not sure if there’s any truth to this (UK readers, confirm for me please), but white doctor’s coats, watches, and long neckties are no longer welcome in the world of medicine in the United Kingdom.

So what’s my weigh in on the issue. Personally, I’ve been partial to bow ties way before this hoopla broke out. Even though I don’t engage in direct patient contact, I still opt for a bow tie over a long necktie. Then again, if it has to be a necktie, the small girth of a skinny tie would work well to evade those pesky pathogens. For the resolute doctors resistant to change, there’s a remedial device called The Tie Thing that (i) helps curb your tie’s wayward behavior and (ii) trumps tie pins, tie bars, tie clips, tie chains and any other contraption designed to keep ties in check. I won’t get too prolix about the workings of The Tie Thing, but let’s just say the nifty strip of fabric slides into the loop label at the back of your tie and is then buttoned to the shirt. For $3.75, The Tie Thing is worth a shot. If not, then in the name of the Hippocratic Oath get thee a bow tie

p.s. this post is exclusively not for doctors; there’s a certain dandyism to bow ties that every man should tap into and not just Dr. Kent Smith!

[Source]
[Source]

Aside from their lewd, attention-grabbing ads, everything at American Apparel pretty much conforms to a muted aesthetic. They do the basics well, but at some stage a wardrobe complete with basics in every color of the rainbow can get a bit humdrum. I’ll give them credit though in that some recent offerings from American Apparel have shown a bit of creative prints, tailoring and fabric options.

Buoyed by the times, I decided to check out what American Apparel has up next on the chopping block. I wasn’t too pleased with the mere two pieces of menswear that is to be added to the American Apparel collection. However, the Unisex Stripe Nylon Taffeta Parka made amends for the scarcity. The parka builds on the rudiments of American Apparel but shows progress. In the use of blue and white, minimalism is still felt in the primary-toned color scheme. Moreover, the parka’s design is very uncluttered and to the point–hooded covering, knee-length form, and. button-up front opening with no superfluous nonsense. The progressive touch comes in the form of the pockets that are reminiscent of Richard Chai and Giorgio Armani’s SS09 collection. Most parka’s sport the customary slit pockets on the side, but the use of frontal pouch pockets is an ingenious touch that has me contemplating my first ever purchase from American Apparel. On the strength of this parka, let’s just say “Coming Soon” couldn’t come any sooner!

My present thinking wouldn’t regard Michael Jackson as much of a fashion-forward chap. These days, I’m more concerned with the King of Pop melting under the sweltering sun of Dubai as his Botox infused visage struggles to hold itself together. However, judging by Jackson’s recent head-to-toe Givenchy womenswear getup, it seems like the King of Pop is back to his good ol’ “Beat It” best!

Based on recent sightings, it’s no secret that Jackson is trying to relive his trendsetter days. After being seen cavorting about in a svelte Balmain t-shirt from the label’s AW09 womenswear collection, recent snapshots show Jackson in a piece for piece rendition of an AW07 stardust-inspired Givenchy look that Gemma Ward wore. Interestingly, closer observation of Jackson’s lapel in comparison to Ward’s shows adjustments were made to tone down the femininity of the initial jacket. Amendments aside, it’s safe to say that Jackson’s affinity for Givenchy could best be described as straight, no chaser!

Evidently, the King of Pop has a fetish for French brands, but it seems that he has a knack for androgynous styling. Since the frenzied rise of Balmainia, many have touted Michael Jackson as the muse behind the label’s rock-chic aesthetic. As for Givenchy, I’m not sure if Tisci is at all inspired by Jackson’s iconic style, but the slouchy jacket and shiny embellishments that peppered that AW07 line are genderless items that only the King of Pop (and Prince, maybe) is privy to pulling off. From Balmain to Givenchy, it’s only a matter of time before Michael taps into another gender bending designer such as Ann Demeulemeester.

Back when he used to rock white socks with his spit-shined black shoes or that disgustingly cool red militaristic jacket seen in “Beat It,” Michael had a singular style that I looked towards. Sadly, his public image took repeated hits from child abuse claims, erratic displays of behavior and his ever-changing facial appearances. Of late, however, it appears the Michael of the old old has returned with a renewed sense of self-worth. Alluding to the words of Coco Chanel, Michael’s style never left; it just took a momentary hiatus.

[Images]

If you fancy yourself a football loyalist, you would know today is a monumental day in football as England’s Manchester United and Spain’s F.C. Barcelona square off to decide who is the European champion. A time-tested Manchester United fan, I’m confident that United is bagging the silverware. However, I’m also comforted in the fact that, win or lose, the Manchester United lads will be well decked out in Sir Paul Smith’s awfully dapper light grey Prince of Wales suits.

Recently billed as the victors of the English Premiership, it was only natural that Manchester United would be in league with the iconic British designer. For the last year, Sir Smith has been at the helm of the football club’s formal wear and accessories, designing and supplying the United players, coaching staff and club officials with suits, raincoats and baggage. The union is meant to span for another two years.

On the eve of the 2009 Champions League match in Rome, the United squad and manager, Sir Alex Ferguson, were snapped alongside Sir Smith in their aplomb ensemble for the footballing fiesta. Coincidentally, United wore Sir Smith’s suits last year at the 2008 finals in Moscow and the Red Devils went on to win on penalties against Chelsea. Formulaic or not, but United are headed to Rome in Smith’s specially customized suits hoping that two times a charm pips the original idiom! Not much has changed in terms of last year’s design; the two-button suit is in a lightweight wool/mohair blend and rounded out with special red paneled lining and striped piping.

To my chagrin, Carlos Tevez had to go Michael Jackson on us and wear white socks with his dark brown brogues. Maybe he should have left that to Nani as the Portuguese winger strangely favors a young Michael Jackson! On that jovial note, do England proud lads and bring home the treble! GO UNITED!!!

[Images]

Psychedelic colours, ethnic patterns, and bohemian details. That’s what Matthew Williamson splashed out for his summer H&M line for men. It was a literal kaleidoscope that spoke to the past, present, and future of menswear in an extremely wearable context. At the least, I had a rough idea that Williamson would stick to his vibrant best and deliver a piña coladaesque collection that epitomized his signature aesthetic of sprightly prints and colours atop relaxed yet structured feminine pieces.

However, I wasn’t sure how that would translate into menswear. It’s rumoured that the designer is to launch a menswear collection in the near future. Let’s just say if his H&M line is a reflection of what’s to come from Williamson in menswear, then we have a lot to be encouraged by.

It’s a known fact that for affordability sake, the materials used for these capsule collections may not be as choice as what these designers have at their disposal for their primary collection. Even at that, pluses go to Williamson for not watering down his aesthetic (which is exactly what the customer is after from these diffuse collections–no adulteration). For instance, the vibrancy of Williamson shone through in the pink and blue tie-dyed knit sweater that was complemented with a pair of studded jeans in a hot pink hue. To cool things down a notch, Williamson traversed to the other end of the colour wheel and served up some lime green shorts, a summer must-have.

However, Williamson’s strong point was the diverse characters that were reflected in the garments. The neon bright pieces were fit for experimental cool kids strung out on colourful matching; the studded biker detail seen on the navy blue leather jacket brings out the rocker in anyone; and the Copacabana-themed shirt and cream seersucker suit is quintessential rico suave. Interestingly, my earlier comment towards the temporal consonance in the collection can be summed through these three looks. Each speaks to an era that has relatively come, gone or still hanging around on the terraces of what’s in vogue. In that, Williamson allows us to time travel in a sense and easily relive distant personalities that our parents may have embodied in the 60s. Or he provides a presentist escape route to keep things funky fresh with a short-suit or a black blazer with technicolor piping. Following on from the Commes des Garcon’s much raved line for H&M, Williamson, personally, had big shoes to fill and I think he’s done just that with this seminal diffuse line.

In concluding my previous post on Rick Ross, I got on the topic of tailoring and how the attentive touch of a sartor could render even Rick Ross into a debonair gentleman. Frankly speaking, even though we’d all love to personally have a Savile Row tailor at our beck and call to serve us up sumptuous suits all season long, many (such as myself) don’t have the pockets deep enough to splash out a good £2000 ($2900) or more on a bespoke number from Savile Row. However, if finances aren’t an issue, my recommendation is taking the high road to the pleasures of bespoke living. From living out the design process from scratch to possessing a lifetime warranty in the form of alterations, bespoke suiting is an assured investment in quality.

On the contrary, made-to-measure suits are steadily emerging as a substitute to London’s Savile Row. Once resigned for upper class, tailor-made suits are now an enviable reality for the masses thanks to made-to-measure establishments such as MySuit. Although not bespoke, at $495, made-to-measure suits are your best bet to injecting that unique fit and sense of personality to one’s wardrobe. In the general sense, a suit truly confers onto its wearer a palette with which the fit, the jacket and pant style, the pocket square and even the collar upon the shirt are brushstrokes that allow one to illustrate their fashion sensibilities. Unsurprisingly, as a made-to-measure establishment, MySuit sees to it that those subtle discernments are lived out through “The MySuit Experience.”

For a mere 15 minutes, “The MySuit Experience” will literally take you on an inch-by-inch approach to the realizing that perfect fitting suit that meets your discretion. First, thirty measures are taken compared to a paltry three measures (suit size, waist size and inseam) that mass-produced department store suits offer. With measuring tape tossed aside and the tailor’s chalk dusted off, the fun truly begins once styling options are thrown your way. Pant styles vary from flat front to pleats (yes, double pleats are available if 1950s fashion is your thing) while jackets come in a medley of button arrangements. Intricate detailing can be rendered to both the pant and jacket through the addition of vents, lapels and sleeve buttons for jackets or suspender buttons, watch pockets and belt loops for pants. That, however, is not the exhaustive list of amendments that can be made to the suit–it’s just the tip of the iceberg! Moreover, all this measuring, hemming and detailing is backed up with sartorial advice from MySuit’s tailors.

Unfortunately, “The MySuit Experience” is currently available to those living in New York/New Jersey metro area where the MySuit has four locations. Still, if you’re stopping by through the city, I wouldn’t hesitate in making an appointment. Heck, in 15 minutes you could be within reach of a quality suit, closing the door on years of second-rate, languid suits that say nothing about you.

Click here to visit MySuit for “The Experience.”

Balmania—the excessive craze for anything contrived by fashion house, Balmain. Last spring, Christophe Decarnin of Balmain served up some exquisitely tailored, shoulder augmented jackets spirited by a Michael Jackson meets militaristic élan. No less than a season after Balmain’s SS09 show, did the jackets reappear in a crazed manner. Literally, Balmain coats were on the backs of close every dainty female who were, quite frankly, “head over shoulders” for Balmain.

Now what’s good for the goose is good for the gander, but sadly not this time around. Snapshots from Balmain’s AW09 collection pour le homme are out and the gargantuan shoulders that sent women the world over batty is strangely absent. What we do get are some rather average motorcycle jackets (the zipper detailing is not shabby though, I’ll give them that) and a distressed leather trench (yes, the leg work is done). I know, I know…beggars can’t be choosers, then again, I would have loved to get in on the Balmania epidemic and experience some of this shoulder region accentuation. Till next season I guess…

[Source]