Menswear is such a tricky area to get right. If you stick to the basics you’ll be branded as boring. But if you go creative then you’ll only attract a small client base. Yes, menswear is a limiting area and I expect it’s exciting for designers to try and tackle this challenging market. For autumn/winter 09 Carolyn Massey has found the perfect balance between everyday, wearable clothing and more design driven styles, ideal for the adventurous.
“The way I see it is that all the men’s designers have to prove to the consumers that they need these clothes. There must be a compelling reason, if your standards are high and your budget—well, isn’t budging. Givenchy? Not a believable vision. Galliano? Been there, Jack Sparrow. Dior Homme? Wasn’t this a cool label once? Lanvin? Seductive and romantic, the clear fashionista favorite. Number (N)ine? Crazy delightful, worth it if you have $2,500 plus to spend for one of the Flemish-colored jackets. Saint Laurent? Drab and unimaginative. Rick Owens? Original but I don’t want to know what the wearer’s hobbies are. Raf Simons? The fit is the compelling reason, nothing more, nothing less. Comme des Garcons? A good season for eclectic pieces, including the leopard pumps. Dunhill? Pointless things done to clothes, with the formality of a boutique hotel uniform.”
— Cathy Horyn on On The Runway
from left to right, Thom Browne, Michael Bastian and Gilded Age SS09 preview
If you’re as enthusiastic about New York Fashion Week as I am, I’m sure a week prior to the tents going up you probably deliberated, religiously, on what to expect this season from the likes of Rag & Bone, Obedient Sons, Thom Browne and other notable menswear designers. Would their aesthetic evolve and positively build from their last season or would inspirations for this spring leave them with a resounding kaput?
Phenomenal news for New York Fashion Week just came in the form of the Calvin Klein Man returning to the February event. Calvin Klein’s men’s show has been a usual feature at Milan, but it seems that the Manhattan-based house is coming back to its roots to present its AW09 men’s collection at New York Fashion Week.
If there’s one thing that cannot be denied of the Dior Homme spring 2009 collection, it is the effective use of popping colours. The electric blues, fuchsias and metallic gold blots were placed at the perfect time to nudge the observers when their eyes grew tired of scoping out the details on the boarder-line monotonous all-black looks.
Strutting down the catwalk at Yohji Yamamoto’s S/S09 wasn’t just the usual sleek, styled to perfection 6ft boys we are used to, instead Yamamoto also opted for older men to model his collection, and the message was clear – “The older man is stylish too!”
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strikemaster:
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strikemaster:
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